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Once you have the two mold pieces apart,
clean 'em out. Pull the clay from the
new mold. This will take time. You will
likely be able to pull the forehead
cheek area clean with ease. It will be
deep where the muzzle and chin are that
may be difficult. Then again, you may
have luck on your side and be able to
pull the clay out with ease. Never use
any metal tools on the mold. They will
mar the surface and the scratches will
show on the final mask. Once as much
of the clay has been removed and only
tiny bits remaining where you cannot
reach you will be making what we call
a slip cast or a "pull." You pour latex
into the negative, swish it around so
that every surface is covered then pour
out the excess back into your container
of latex.
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You can also use your fingers to make sure all surfaces are covered. After
draining as much of the latex as you can back into your latex container, set the mold with the opening face down (Usually on newspaper) and let drain the rest of the way and cure. This may happen overnight or it may take several days. The latex must be all one color. If the muzzle area is still a light color compared to the rest, it has not yet cured. If you want to rush the setting along, you can hit it with a blow dryer for several minutes. Once the latex is cured you just pull it out of the mold. If you want to see what your mask will roughly look like, make sure you first powder (baby powder is fine) the inside of the latex before you pull it from the mold. |
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If things work out right, you will see little grey areas where the
remaining clay adhered to the latex. The latex will have pulled the clay right out of the mold, finishing the cleaning process. Now you'll want to scrub the mold with alcohol and a semi-rough brush. Let dry. Make sure you also clean the life cast of all clay with the alcohol as well. |
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Pull: Front, Side and Inside
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Next: The Blow (Raw mask)
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